1. Background History In 1991 Dr Robert Beck DSc, a Physicist, began treating diseases using pulsed micro-currents delivered to the skin above blood vessels in the arm, that was found to neutralize viruses, bacteria and other pathogens circulating in the blood. The technique was based on earlier work carried out by Doctors William Lyman and Steven Kaali in 1990, where during laboratory tests they found that viruses were neutralized in HIV infected blood, when the blood was subjected to low electrical currents of 50 to 100 microamperes. Lyman and Kaali later published a technical paper detailing their work, which has since disappeared, but they patented a proposed invasive means of applying their technique in 1993 (US Patent 5,188,738). In 1996 Dr Beck improved his design by replacing the relays in his original circuit with an integrated circuit, making it solid state and more durable. The unit runs on 3 of 9V PP3 batteries (total 27V) and delivers approximately 100 milliamps to the skin above the radial and ulnar arteries on one wrist via two short electrodes. Allowing for resistance losses through the tissues above the arteries, between 50 and 100 microamps of current is delivered to the circulating blood. At the time of writing (2015) many blood ‘pulsers’ are available on the market at a range of prices. Probably the most well known of these products is made by SOTA, who worked closely with Dr Beck and who were endorsed by him. Their product ‘The Silver Pulser’ is an implementation of Dr Beck’s 1996 circuit and provides microampere pulsing to the blood, as described above, and also makes colloidal silver. It is however, our belief that a colloidal silver generator should be a separate device powered by a mains supply, whilst the blood electrifier should run on batteries and be a stand-alone unit. This document is a comprehensive set of instructions to help the interested person to build their own blood electrifier-pulser. The electronic components available today are of better quality than those available when Dr Beck first made his circuit. A small modification has been made to the battery indicator LED part of Dr Beck’s circuit to compensate for the different properties of LED resistance and output now observed in newer components. The resourceful builder may choose to make their blood pulser of a different configuration to that described here. This is perfectly acceptable, and with determination the builder may find he can make a device cheaper than that detailed here. Our design incorporates some of the more expensive components, like battery compartments and case, because they are resilient and well made. Following these instructions will still enable a functioning device to be made at a fraction of the cost of anything similar available through retail channels. What the enthusiast requires is some practical skills such as drilling, soldering and bolting small objects together. Sufficient illustrations and photographs are included to make the job easier. By way of tools, a good fine-pointed soldering iron, small screwdrivers, small pliers and snips, small drill and drill-bits, file, craft knife and masking tape are minimum requirements. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 2 of 28 .
2. General Specifications Dr Beck’s blood electrification device can be built from the circuit schematic and instructions freely available on the internet. However, some knowledge interpreting circuit diagrams and also a feeling for how the device can be designed are necessary. We have written this document in order that those with no experience of electronics are capable of building this device, empowering them to ‘take back their health’. As already stated, if the experimenter wishes to deviate from these instructions, for example use a different enclosure and battery compartments, he is free to do so; provided the circuit schematics are followed, a good working device can be made. Below is a picture of the completed device as described. Note that the 3.5mm mini-jack socket where the electrode leads are connected is situated on the front face of the device, out of picture. Figure 2.1. Blood Pulser Unit General Arrangement (Electrode leads not shown) The enclosure is 150mm long, 80mm high and 50mm deep, which is the smallest size box capable of being used with the specified battery compartments. Electrode leads made from 1.3 metre long twin core flat pair mains cable (5A) fitted with a 3.5mm mini jack plug take the signal to the treatment site. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 3 of 28 .
3. Circuit Schematics The figure below shows Dr Beck’s circuit diagram from 1996. There is nothing wrong with this circuit. Literally thousands of these devices have been built by experimenters over the past 18 years. However, electronic components, especially LEDs, have undergone some minor improvements since this circuit was designed. After testing the circuit with good quality LEDs available today, we found it necessary to make a minor alteration to the battery indicator part of Dr Beck’s circuit, in order that a clearer indication of the batteries state of charge can be determined. Figure 3.1. Original 1996 Bob Beck Improved Schematic The above diagram includes the facility to produce Colloidal Silver. This may have some use if the owner of the device is travelling and unable to access mains power for long periods of time. Another advantage would be the convenience and portability of having the two devices in one enclosure. Our opinion is that a Colloidal Silver Generator should be a separate device operating from mains electricity stepped down by a regulated power supply. Much experimentation has convinced us that the best quality Colloidal Silver requires several hours to produce, using a DC voltage that has its current limited to an optimum value governed by the electrode surface area. In addition, it is better to produce Colloidal Silver in minimum quantities of between one and two litres for product consistency. With this in mind we have written comprehensive instructions on how to build a superior Colloidal Silver Generator, contained in another document. Therefore our implementation of Dr Beck’s circuit does not include a means to produce Colloidal Silver. It is a stand alone Blood Electrifier. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 4 of 28 .
Figure 3.2. Modified Schematic Circuit Diagram The above schematic is Dr. Beck’s 1996 circuit with the battery indicator part redrawn to optimize performance of LEDs available today. It can be seen that the layout of the circuit has been changed to make it simpler to follow. If you don’t believe this, just compare with figure 3.1 and trace the lines from each component to the next. You will see it is the same circuit. The circuit is built on ‘Veroboard’, which is a reinforced plastic sheet with copper tracks on one side. An array of holes is drilled in the sheet and the components’ contacts are passed through these holes and soldered onto the copper tracks on the opposite side of the board. It is a very simple and effective means of building electronic prototypes. ‘Veroboard’ is a proprietary name and a similar product may be available having another product name, such as ‘Eurocard’ or ‘prototype board’. The board size used here is 100mm x 160mm, with 1mm diameter holes set in an array of 2.54mm pitch. This is a common specification and allows standard components, such as chip sockets, to fit the board precisely. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 5 of 28 .
4. Preparation A piece of the ‘Veroboard’ needs to be cut to fit the enclosure, and your circuit will be built upon this piece of board. The board is cut easily by scoring along a line using a steel straight edge and a sharp craft knife (e.g. ‘Stanley Knife’). Once scored, the board can be bent along the line of the scored groove and it will break cleanly along the groove. When cutting along the direction of the tracks, score the line between two tracks on the same side as the copper tracks, and break. When cutting across the tracks, score your line deeply along a line of holes on the same side as the copper tracks so that the line passes through a line of holes. Bend and break the board along your line as before. Figure 4.1. Veroboard Cut to Size to Fit the Enclosure Side to Side You will want your piece of Veroboard to be a good fit in your enclosure, so try to be accurate in cutting to plus or minus 1mm if possible. You can cut slightly oversize and file the board down to the exact size you want. Remember not to bridge the gaps between each track, as there must be no electrical contact between them. You can clear debris between the tracks using the tip of your craft knife. A magnifying glass is useful to inspect your finished board. The enclosure we have selected to build the device is made to accommodate ‘Veroboard’, and as such it is slotted within in both directions so that pieces of board can be held between the slots on each side. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 6 of 28 .
Figure 4.2. Enclosure and Veroboard Fitted Between Internal Slots Now that your piece of ‘Veroboard’ fits snugly between the slots inside the enclosure, you can proceed to the other steps in preparing the parts for assembly. First ensure that the enclosure lid fits without interference. There needs to be a gap if about 4mm between the top of the Veroboard and the inside of the lid. When the device is complete, thin wires will pass across the top of the board and they must not be pinched between the lid and edge of the board. The next step is to remove a small part of two copper tracks where the LM358 chip will be positioned. The LM358 chip has two rows of four pins (8 pins in total) that are separate contacts, and so the portion of track between opposite pins must be removed so that each pin is electrically isolated. This will be made clear in the following illustrations. Removing portions of the copper tracks is relatively easy. Again, a magnifying glass makes this easy. Where you cut can be marked first using a CD marking pen if need be. Use a straight edge and craft knife to score across the tracks through the copper only. Score two lines through the tracks you want to remove, but do not score outside the area to be removed. Be careful not to score too close to the holes where the LM358 chip pins will be soldered. You must leave enough copper around these holes to solder onto. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 7 of 28 .
Figure 4.3. Veroboard Track Removal Configuration (Viewed from plain side) The above diagram shows the amount of copper tracks to be excavated using your craft knife. First score the tracks then peel away with the tip of the knife, making sure that no copper remains and the end result is neat and tidy. Note that the diagram above shows the board looking from above, onto the plain side without the tracks. The tracks are on the underside of the board, the components are mounted on the top (plain) side. Note also the numbers and letters. These must be followed exactly, as your components are placed according to the numbers. The chip is housed in a chip socket, and it is the chip socket that will be soldered into holes H20, I20, J20, K20 and H23, I23,J23,K23. Be sure you remove the copper tracks only from where you must. Cutting across any other copper track will render it useless. In the diagram above, holes from 1 to 6 have not been shown for clarity, as the circuit is built mostly to the right hand side of the board. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 8 of 28 .
Figure 4.4. Veroboard With Track Areas Removed for Fitting of Chip Sockets The above photo shows two prepared boards with copper track removed from between the holes where each chip socket will be soldered. Once the track has been removed, carefully insert the chip socket through the holes on the plain side of the board. Make sure the orientation of the chip socket is correct. The socket will have a small indentation at one end between where pins 1 and 8 are located. See Figure 5.1 for clarity. It is important that the socket is fitted the right way around. To ensure the socket is soldered such that it is all the way ‘home’, or as far onto the board as it can go, you can use something to weigh the board down during soldering, so that the socket pins are fully through the board. The following photo shows the chip socket soldered when viewed onto the back of the board. A soldering iron with a five tip is needed for this work. Also remember to complete each soldered joint quickly, and do not let components overheat by a too long application of the soldering iron. This is especially important when soldering diodes and transistors; it is why we use a chip socket and don’t solder the pins of the chip itself directly onto the board. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 9 of 28 .
Figure 4.5. Chip Socket Soldered Once the chip socket is soldered into position the rest of the circuit is built around it. You can start by soldering the wire linkages between the various holes as shown in Figure 5.1. Fine single-core insulated copper wire, often called ‘prototype wire’ or ‘alpha wire’ is used. Cut to length and trim the insulation from each end about 4mm back. Surplus wire protruding from the track on the reverse of the board can be trimmed after soldering with small snips. A pair of small long nosed pliers can be used to bend the wire neatly. Remember to keep your work neat and tidy. Try not to use too much solder, as a large blob of solder can bridge the gap between the tracks and conduct electricity where it is not wanted. BBeecckk BBlloooodd EElleeccttrriiffiieerr BBuuiillddiinngg KKnnoobbjjoocckkeeyyss IInncc PPaaggee 10 of 28 .